Routes : Reviews
Ascent Notes for: PF Flyers -
5.10a
Average Rating : 3.00/5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes
Comments: Show | Hide
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | R |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Top Rope ascent by:
Just Messing Around
I am not very keen on top-roping at Stone as it completely removes the the entire mental aspect of slab climbing. However, I have mellowed a little after witnessing a death here last year (not a climber) and falling on this same route exactly one week later.
I had previously lead the very runout first pitch twice. The first time, I just didn't feel good at the headwall on the second pitch and retreated. The second time, it began raining as I was about 30' up with zero gear on 5.10 rock. I attempted to downclimb and made it to about the 20' mark but couldn't go any further without jumping off. Thankfully, the rain stopped and I was able to continue back up. I finally made it to the first piece of pro, a shared bolt with Grand Funk and good 75' off the deck. I was quite nervous by then but continued on anyway. I broke away from Grand Funk and headed up to the belay rings below the headwall. I made it to the first bolt, which still had the red webbing from my last visit. I made it about 10' or 15' past the bolt and slipped. My belayer was not paying attention and I fell a bit further than I should have and jacked my ankle on a small ledge. The two traumatic experiences exactly a week apart took a toll on my climbing for the past year.
Now, just over a year later I decided I wanted to toprope the crux section in the headwall. It was not easy either as there is not much gear up above the headwall. There is a lot of debris and vegetation on this route due to it being an area of tremendous run-off after rain. That probably had a lot to do with its difficulty but I can tell you now that this was more difficult than any other 5.10s I have climbed at Stone and I have climbed quite a few. None of the guidebooks show the climbing in the headwall as being particularly difficult but I beg to differ. I would want to clean it before I lead it. Be very cautious with the first pitch too as it is extremely runout. This is just not a safe route and there are plenty of other routes to choose from. Yes, that red webbing is still there. Well, what was red, it is now mostly black.
I had previously lead the very runout first pitch twice. The first time, I just didn't feel good at the headwall on the second pitch and retreated. The second time, it began raining as I was about 30' up with zero gear on 5.10 rock. I attempted to downclimb and made it to about the 20' mark but couldn't go any further without jumping off. Thankfully, the rain stopped and I was able to continue back up. I finally made it to the first piece of pro, a shared bolt with Grand Funk and good 75' off the deck. I was quite nervous by then but continued on anyway. I broke away from Grand Funk and headed up to the belay rings below the headwall. I made it to the first bolt, which still had the red webbing from my last visit. I made it about 10' or 15' past the bolt and slipped. My belayer was not paying attention and I fell a bit further than I should have and jacked my ankle on a small ledge. The two traumatic experiences exactly a week apart took a toll on my climbing for the past year.
Now, just over a year later I decided I wanted to toprope the crux section in the headwall. It was not easy either as there is not much gear up above the headwall. There is a lot of debris and vegetation on this route due to it being an area of tremendous run-off after rain. That probably had a lot to do with its difficulty but I can tell you now that this was more difficult than any other 5.10s I have climbed at Stone and I have climbed quite a few. None of the guidebooks show the climbing in the headwall as being particularly difficult but I beg to differ. I would want to clean it before I lead it. Be very cautious with the first pitch too as it is extremely runout. This is just not a safe route and there are plenty of other routes to choose from. Yes, that red webbing is still there. Well, what was red, it is now mostly black.
Added: 2013-12-19
