Ascent Notes for: Army Route - 5.5 Average Rating : 4.17/5

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Fun lieback opportunity at large flake crux near top of pitch 1. Rating for pitch 1 only (all I climbed).

Seconded the whole route. No communication after the first pitch so work out rope pull signals... and pull hard. Good route to get introduced to multipitch and placing trad gear.

really fun till the thired pitch where i tried to lead to the left, where there is no protection, crappy rock, and tricky holds.

Taking advice from Gary, I tried to use the rope-yank signals.

First two pitches are alright. Easy climbing, nice views. The last pitch has the best and the worst rock. Like trying to be delicate on ball bearings. This is one of those places where you don't screw it up or your gonna have a bad day.

Mentally daunting climb. Small Nuts and Cams, slings for small solid rocks and some nerves will get you to the top. Old route first ascented by the Army in the 1950's and it looks like what few bolts there are on the second and third pitches are about that old. Loose to the left on the second pitch, and very lose and slippery 15' with poor protection just underneath the overhang on the third pitch.

Most of the ancient bolts are still solid, one at the ledge near the top on the third pitch is bent outwards and is unusable. Best to belay the second from that ledge using the small cracks.

Downclimb 10' to the top of the ridge on the backside and then walk off following the runoff trails to the south or follow the ridge.

Overall a Fun day out.

Actually climbed this fun route numerous times back in 1973. Had to use the date above since it doesn't go back that far.

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