Ascent Notes for: Balzac - 5.9 Average Rating : 2.00/5

This part of the wall you can almost climb anywhere you want although you can get into some hard ground if not carful, this is not a very well travelled route with no fixed anchors with only the odd peice of fixed gear. The 1-3 pitchs are somewhat easy to follow but ensure you follow to the right on pitch 3, dont head to the bail sling to the left. 4th pitch climbs the very obvious right hand crack DONT HEAD LEFT, the right crack is very fun with great gear. The 5th pitch (crux) climbs a thin poorly protected crack to a steep slab, I was able to get to ok pins that I equilzed in the hand ledge to the left above the thin crack, the rest of the slab and crack climbs ok, at the top of the slab I was able to find some poor gear before the crux, if no one has retro the rivets I would recomend taking some cord to atleast thread them as a fall on the crux with bad gear on this pitch will be bad. The rest of the route follow the huge ramp/gully.