Ascent Notes for: North East Buttress - 5.7 Average Rating : 3.00/5

This route is graded III 5.7, as with most alpine rock routes in the rockies if it feels much harder than the grade your off route, there is a fair amount of loose rock and route finding in the begining goes against the rock climber in you, do not try the obvious grove on the buttress proper, this leads to much more diffcult climbing and bad pro, find the easier loose 'chimney' to the left, there is the odd set of pins you may find a pitch off the ground although this is an old rap station, above the chimney leads to aboout 100m of scrambling in which you may find odd pin scars at the base of the upper face on the border of the NF and buttress. The next pitch climbs better rock, once below the white spot the next couple of pitchs are the good climbing on the route, traverse right aprox 20ft diagonal to what seems like the most solid but steep break in the wall, the pro is thin and I placed a lost arrow at this break and did the best move on the route that seems a bit above grade but when climbing easier routes.... Cont up and slight left following the best rock and pro, I did not find the 'grassy ledge above the white spot' but did find the single bolt anchor on a good ledge out further right of the white spot that allows you to do the final 2 long pitchs that mainly follow cimneys and gullies to the top. 8 hrs or less on route should be expected as long as no route finding diffculties.

the approach on the ridge is really neat as its almost flat from the fire look out to the base with a quaint trail