Ascent Notes for: Midway Direct, Upper Castle Rock - 5.6 Average Rating : 4.00/5

Tick

Kristin and I put this up. Super cruiser. Big gear.

Fun route for sure. Pitch 1 is up the obvious right-facing corner between Jell-O Tower and the main wall. Some books describe it as a chimney - but it's more on the face with some stemming moves really. Bolted anchor on top of Jell-O Tower. Pitch 2 steps across from the tower to the main wall, and continues up. Plenty of belay options exist - the big alcove with an old bolt is best (the bolt however, is not the best). From there, the 3rd pitch is short and easy to the top - walk-off to the right on an obvious trail.

Awesome route after a bit of a head rush coming up the south face of Jello Tower. Great practice for wondering, thoughtful alpine routes. A 60 meter rope will get you from Jello Tower to the top, with about 10 feet to spare.

Fun route. Be ready for a few slightly heady moves just above jello tower. Bring shoes for the walk-off. I took 3 people up for their first multi-pitch climb and they all had a blast. Great for new leaders!!

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Fun route. We did it in 3 pitches, setting a belay about 40-50 feet above Jello Tower, so I could communicate with Tom while he did the step-over. There was a nice ledge about 3 feet wide with a large crack to set up an anchor.

Very enjoyable route. Pretty easy climbing, but runout sections and huge exposure make it a fun time. The view from the top was spectacular.

fun step across the tower. Good exposure