Ascent Notes for: The Vampire - 5.11a popular Average Rating : 4.82/5

Did this route with Lukasz. The crack is awesome, the slab is hard & obnoxious. Though easy, the finishing pitch is pretty cool (how often are you pulling overhangs on trad?). The pitch 3 crux seems run-out to me. Morning shade, afternoon sun. Had a good view of the unfortunate rockfall & aftermath on the Trough while on pitch 3.

got spanked on the first pitch crux, second pitch traverse (SWIIIING and a miss) and the third pitch face move. really, this climb is above me... but its fun to get drug up it :))

Had redemption afterwards on Sundance!

Sent P1-P3.

pitch crack which is awesome until that friggin mantle. I have seen the mantle described as "energetic" but I think desperate is a more appropriate adjective. Knowing that this pitch is the tamest of them makes me anxious to connect with a slabmaster partner to try and bag the whole thing.

http://pullharder.org/2010/09/11/anything-but-ordinary-full-moon-ascent-of-the-vampire/

Make sure to place a piece high and right before doing the mantle. I didn't and fell backwards about 20 feet. Got it 2nd try but it was definitely the crux for me. I also fell once at the bolt on pitch 3, got it 2nd try.

A long wonderful route. I seconded it two years ago. I was going for the Redpoint, and I was so close to get it! Unfortunately, I fell right at the bolt/crux. Then, being short, I did the 5.10d variation, which I was anxious about. The harder move was definitely the step across right at the bolt where I fell/hang. After that, the moves are more committing, but the foot 'holds' on the slab are pretty good if you take your time. I also cut back left as soon as possible to climb above the bolt and reach for the diagonal crack. Not as scary as I though it would be! Go lead it :)

Super mega classic route. I fell at the beginning of the second pitch but then get it 2nd try. Onsighted all other pitches. Fun varied granite climbing. Even the easy climbing was super fun. This is a must-do for the grade.

Lives up to the hype and then some

Bring good smearing shoes and power through the last few moves of the first pitch.