Ascent Notes for: The Vampire - 5.11a popular Average Rating : 4.82/5

Backed off the 3rd pitch (without falling) and did the direct finish instead. The direct finish goes up a wafer thin hollow flake that will take, but proably not hold many small stoppers. The final move is a super high-step mantle to bolts. Whoa!!!
The photogenic possibilities of the Second from this vantage point is amazing. Take a camera, wish I had one.

Best route I've ever done.

Got on this for the first time. What a fantastic line. We swapped leads up this with me taking the odd pitches.
I onsighted the bat crack, followed the second pitch clean, fell on the bolt a couple of times on the third pitch, and followed the last pitch clean.
Gear that kept us ubber protected: nuts, 1 gray TCU, 1 green alien, 1 Blue TCU, 2 yellow TCU, 1 Orange TCU, 2 #0.5 C4, 2 #0.75 C4, 3 #1 C4, 2 #2 C4, 1 #3 C4

Went back up there 9/21/2008 with Kostas. This time I got the 3rd pitch on my first go! Kostas led the bat crack, 2nd pitch, and final pitch. I only led the 3rd one. Fell following the start of pitch 2. As of now I have team red point the route. I need to lead pitch 2 and 4 in order to "individually redpoint" all pitches.

We did this route in late afternoon, and on the second pitch the swallows began coming home to nest, diving in between my hands into the crack. More disconcerting than scary.

2007/06/09: Wild. We accidently did the direct finish up the super-thin flake which was a bit dicey. (with Kostas)

2007/07/28: Came back to try for the redpoint with Scotty. Cruised the whole bat crack and got spit off hard right at the end! Had a great time though. What a great route.

2009/09/20: Came back with Ben who'd never been on the route. Effortlessly cruised everything, did the 3rd pitch move static, no falls. Feels good to get stronger. SUCH a good route, so good.

This is the best route I've done in SoCal, by far. Perfect, wild climb.

I can't stop thinking about this climb. Absolutely phenominal.

could not pull the mantel. My favorite route at Idyilld!!!! A must do.

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2nd try. The crux got me twice on my onsight attempt a few weeks earlier.

Congrats to crackmd for the onsite. Thanks for dragging me up.