Ascent Notes for: The Vampire - 5.11a popular Average Rating : 4.82/5

An absolute classic. This route has it all: physical crack climbing of varied sizes, dicey face traversing, killer laybacking up a pancake flake and awesome moves through the summit overhangs. This is all played out on a beautiful wall with great exposure. One of the best routes I have done. I did the direct start to the Bat Crack which seems like the logical line; why would one want to miss out on 50 feet of great crack climbing by starting off the Vampire Ledge? Also did the 10d variation out right on the 3rd pitch; next time will go for the 11a direct line past the bolt.
Addendum: did the 11a direct on 6/4/05 without any falls.

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followed vstiefel

Flashed the first two pitches. 10d friction on P3 got me though - doh!

Followed Bobby Fredin a few years back but did lead the second and fourth pitches. One of the best climbs anywhere.