Ascent Notes for: Golden Earring - 5.7 popular Average Rating : 4.04/5

This was my first climb at Moore's Wall. The rock quality is great and the route took cams, stoppers and tricams well. It wasnt an especially difficult route but the crack, for me, was more difficult than the traverse. With plenty of feet and horizontal cracks, I thought the traverse was easier to protect than some other ascent notes have mentioned. The top was easy to protect without using the rap rings due to the abundance of solid anchor trees.

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I thought the traverse at top was a little runout but fine. Crack section is fun for a few feet.

Tried leading but lowered off at the crux. Then followed as second and climbed it clean.

Did this on second. Looked like good gear placement throughout!

great consistent 5.7 crack

Back again with thoughts on the step and fetch finish. However, I was climbing mid-afternoon when the sun starts to bake this wall. Right around the thinner part below the roof I was sweating so much that even the hand+ jam in the roof felt slick. A hard call but I decided to be prudent and back off. I'll come back on a less humid day...

The bottom third was wet and had a nice coat of green going too, although that part is easy going.

For the record I got some beta from folks in the area (thanks Jeff!) that day that the S+F finish begins by stepping right onto a decent ledge immediately after pulling through the vertical section into the corner before the traverse.

Followed the wife up this one. Reminded us of JTree cracks. Good climb with lots of gear.

Beautiful sustained vertical pitch in the Amphitheater. Crux for me was just below the roof where holds got thin and required balance and faith to achieve secure holds below the roof. High traverse below the roof is easy if you use jug holds baked into the roof.

On a self-belayed toprope, this was very easily climbed though a fall would have been a pretty sweet swing left. This is a very well protected lead. Moves left up high may be heady for 5.7 leaders. Great climb though.