Ascent Notes for: Standard Route *** - 5.7 Average Rating : 3.50/5

Started on the standard route before moving onto Toe crack. Was a good fun start with a good bit of pro potential. Just need to keep an ey eout for the right spot for the right pro.

good pro. fun climb

always seen people climbing the route and it looked fun. partner did first two pitches of toe crack, in one pitch. then i groveled up the chockstone and lead the somewhat sketchy and moderately not-protected right wall. the last pitch was dirty and not too fun. my partner exited left onto a harder slab.

Did first two pitches of Toe Crack and finished Standard Route to the Thin Air ledge. Third pitch has a lack of pro, fourth pitch finishes left if one climbs before getting too deep into the gully.

Switched leads.

Started off on the first 2 pitches of Repulsion, and then finished on standard Route to the top.

I can't believe we did this for my first big climb at CL.

After climbing the prickley "direct start". We made our way up to the renowned cave. Partially scared out of my mind, my partner and I walked into the cave area together. I said, you are not going to step on that rock are you as he stepped on a large 2' long boulder.

The cave wall was pretty wet and dirty. After assessing the cave situation we almost bagged it and repelled down. But I persisted. Not having read the guidebook, I didn't realize that this was considered the crux. I suggested that he climb onto a large boulder in the back of the cave and clip the existing protection (thank you to whoever placed this!). He did.

After he climbed for a long time I felt the rope tighten. "That's me". No answer. "James". No answer. With no response I climbed (now that is the obvious choice, but to a noob, I wasn't sure what to do).

Remember that boulder I mentioned earlier. As I attempted the cruxy side of the cave wall (I was about 10' up), that boulder let go, and headed right for a couple 30 feet below us on the same route. I yelled ROCK, ROCK ROCK! He yelled ROCK, ROCK, ROCK as the boulder descended towards his parter who was on the climb. Fortunately it missed her completely and hit the bottom with a thud. Some other climbers came by to make sure we were okay (funny that I could hear them from the bottom 190' below, but not my partner 125' above). I fell off the crux wall badly shaken by the near miss, as I waited for my p. to figure out I was stuck and lower me. I then swung on the pro above the cave ceiling to bypass the crux, but climbed the difficult overhang at the top of the cave wall.

From there we climbed the rest with ease (although I was pretty spent). My p. asked if I wanted to belay down. I opted to walk off, I'd had enough action for that day.

I learned some valuable lessons that day:
1. Climbing REALLY is dangerous
2. There are environmental dangers beyond my control.
3. Don't climb below others, no matter how classic the route.
4. If the rope tightens while you are on second, it is time to climb.
5. Don't forget the guidebook.

A nice long climb!

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