Ascent Notes for: Coyotes In the Hen House - 5.10d Average Rating : 3.64/5

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fun

If you make it to the first bolt, you will get the rest clean.
Although the crux is short (start to first bolt), I rate it 11a.

This is a great 11a route - friends have thanked me for suggesting it. Its a must-try classic. For short people like me, the crux is the first move - a long reach to an undercling off small crimps (most certainly harder than 10d I'd say). The bright side is, however, that I always redpoint it (since blowing the crux is an automatic start-over). After this first move I suppose one might argue its a 10d, but certainly a very nice sustained one. I think I'll stick with my guidebook though and say 11a. Some of the higher holds seem a bit thin (though very positive) - I could swear I feel them flex sometimes. But, they've held up to lots of traffic. Note: you can do the 11b trad route to the left off these anchors (Brewed Awakening) - just sling the horn at the top for a directional.

Start was a pretty hard.

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durpa durp

cleaned some chalk off the route, and some off the ground

hard start to spooky holds. pull lightly

Hollow Flakes for sure, but still fun and long.