Ascent Notes for: Quaker State - 5.11a Average Rating : 4.69/5

Back for the RP on attempt two. I noticed I tend to miss the key right hand crimp at the upper crux when leading versus TRing. There is a sorta decent red C4 you can place in a pod up around there but it may be more trouble than it's worth. It's been fun climbing it on TR over the years as I come down from other routes and it was satisfying adding the RP lead experience. Very nice route that takes gear well but would be a challenging onsight effort.

lead after tr'ing and figuring out gear. While the climbing is pretty casual figuring out the gear onsight would be pretty difficult. Slung one chicken head over the last 50 feet or so. Fun stuff.

Climbing was 10b, gear was less than ideal, especially for a "5star" so it did feel harder on the onsight. Height and quality of rock does make this pretty good, for moores.

Loved this route from start to finish. Great gear, movement, and position. Stellar!

I've worked this on TR and memorized the gear, and sent it today. It felt smooth and never felt like I was going to fall. A proud send for me.

...headpointing this. I managed to TR it today and place all the gear, and still managed to clean the gear off of it and TR it a third time. Feels like it is about wired and ready for the lead, as long as my memory doesn't fail me.

Everything was just where it needed to be for fun. Beautiful rock.

TR'ed this thing and loved it. Managed a clean ascent and I'm happy about that, but boy was it a work out. I could perhaps see the point made in another review about it being hard sustained 10 moves, but do that for 100 feet and maybe that makes for an 11a. There are a few decent rest points but that ending section before it turns easy is pretty brutal. Great route! No idea how well it gears but it might be a little run out. Clean falls for sure though - nothing to hit!

This is one of the finer routes at Moore's, almost like taking Baby Bear at Pilot and stretching it for about 90 feet!

This is one of the finer routes at Moore's, almost like taking Baby Bear at Pilot and stretching it for about 90 feet!