Ascent Notes for: Little John Right - 5.8 Average Rating : 4.62/5

may be a little bagged and requires subtle technique. Be careful not to traverse on the big ledge system on the second pitch; go up fifteen feet before traversing left. Last pitch is dessert.

1st pitch only

Great variety on this climb, both crack & face, linked in 2 pitches w/ 60m. Unfortunately, my tooth also shattered as I was leading the 2nd pitch, as the rope drag exploded my front left #10 (it was already weakened from a root canal) as I was pulling up to clip. It was a little distracting, choking up & spitting out bone shrapnel the rest of the crack.

bomber belay ledge after first pitch

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First and third pitches are pretty nice.

Don't continue up the fingertip layback on pitch2 ... the anchor is mank. Go left when you can see the easier crack (that is the way the route is supposed to go anyway)

climbed this when it was about 100 degrees and it was definitely sweaty and slippery pulling over the fat bulge on pitch 1. stretched 2nd and 3rd pitch together but rope drag was bad and heat was pretty exhausting. a bear attacked the rope bag we left on the ground! i threw hexes at it from the ledge at the top of the first pitch to scare it off.

Agree, tough for a 5.8. Each pitch has some tough stuff.

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