Ascent Notes for: Paradise Lost - 5.10a Average Rating : 5.00/5

Climbed this route with Clint Cummins to fix ropes to pitch 7 so that the ASCA can replace all the old 1/4 in bolts on the route.
Great route with some really moderate but high quality climbing on middle. There are some decent runouts but nothing harder than 5.8. The 5.10 sections seem to be well protected. The third pitch is cut short and how has a belay anchor where the bolt before the traverse right is. There is another route that continues strait up from there. Don't get suckered into going up. Instead, keep traversing right and you'll run into the anchor hiding just behind a right facing corner below a small roof. Pitch 4 climbs over that roof with bomber pro and huge exposure and follows a splitter crack for a while until you're spit back out onto the face. The rest of the route has some wild traverses, great edging, solid rock and major exposure. This is a route for a solid leader at the grade as the runouts (though easy/er) are big enough at times where one would not want to fall. This route would be a great warm up for someone wanting to jump on Stoners Highway but not sure if their ready or not, as it has similar climbing, but with a more moderate grade.

I liked the route but would suggest folks stay off it unless they lead 5.10 face regularly and have plenty of trad headspace. The moves aren't hard but there are some leadouts and old bolts.

A favorite. A Reider route: runout. I led the second or thrid, and the crux up high.