Ascent Notes for: Oz - 5.10d Average Rating : 5.00/5

great route. I lead the 10+ sporty pitch and my partner took the corner. great fun. did Gram traverse after for more fun

Onsighted while climbing with Ed Henicle on our first day in the Meadow. The 10d crux (face-climbing on crimpy knobs) pitch is very well-bolted - its almost a sport/gym route - probably would be 11a in our gym. Super-topo says the dihedral takes lots of 1 inch cams - not the same as BD #1. You want alot of #0.5 BD C4s (purple). I'd say protecting the start is PG13 (with G being 100% straightforward). We decided not to do Gram Traverse though - trad-leading at my limit under supposedly large loose death blocks didn't appeal to me, so we did the standard finish. However, there are some loose holds on the standard finish also. After one (blindly) turns the arete, while stepping down, two holds present themselves - they are as loose as they are positive & inviting. Avoiding them makes the move harder than one would have initially expected. The walkoff isn't too difficult, but try to do it in the daylight.

A great first day in the Meadows!

Once again, failed to send pitch 2 clean. Maybe next time. Incredible route. Bring lots of purple/green camalot sized cams for "the corner".

stem baby stem. Classic climb.

Way harder than Lucky Streaks, possibly because I'm short. Dihedral pitch was amazing. Followed all but p1.

Easily one of the best climbs in Tuolumne. Every pitch is quality and the 3rd pitch is one of the best I have been on. We continued on to the Hobbit Book for a spectacular day of climbing.

The whole thing kicks ass. Heady start followed by some cool manteling and climbing up a sharp flake. The second pitch is a well bolted (and safe) sport route. Pass the first set of anchors and continue to the base of the dihedral unless you're going for the record slowest accent. The dihedral is world class, long, pretty sustained, clean and has many fixed pieces so you don't have to bring extra 1" pieces. Never done the last pitch though. Did the Gram traverse instead.... not that great.

I lead the traverse-ish part. Crimpy!

Would have been an onsight had I not gotten my finger stuck on the 3rd pitch. Finished with Gram Traverse and then Hobbit Book in a state of dehydration that made even 5.7 feel hard!

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