Ascent Notes for: The Wasteland - 5.8 Average Rating : 4.90/5

yes more adventure than Euphoria, 70m combined 1,2 but also did start variation to teenagewasteland .

cold, windy, intermittent snow

do this one. Yes, even over Ewephoria. So much more adventurous!

Climbed with Laine and Maryann. Led evens this time.

Although many give this route a 'G' safety, it can be pretty spicy, even closer to R, but has a more PG-13 feel for some reason.

Had just place 3 pieces in the crack to the left on the ledge at the top of the first pitch when the first yellow jackets emerged from the crack my top piece was in, a nice #10 stopper. Long story short...I killed 6 including the 4 that stung me before my partner could reach the tree above me. I joined him and they followed us, we bailed (2 raps single rope) and they followed us down. Great looking route. We'll try again next month.

It is nice little route with bunch of chicken heads. I think route is much easier than typical Cochise route, but that may just be me. I tend to do better on routes with big holds with overhung vs slab.

You can easily do this route in 5 pitches. You just need to extend your protection more.

P1 and P2: Kind of silly and boring actually. Hard to protect on places without being little creative.

P3: Chimney into awesome flakes. Lots of chicken heads. Never seen so many chicken heads in my life! Awesome pitch by the way. Climb long as possible, so that you can run P5 & P6 together.

P4: Where is the overhung roof? It wasn't a roof. It is slightly more vertical than prior pitches :) After a "roof", traverse left as possible, this will set you up to link P5 and P6 together.

P5-p6: Summit! More awesome flake into couple moves of slabby moves.

Gears: Bring bunch of slings (I brought around 16 slings). Set of stoppers, and I brought 10 cams from 0.4 to 3.

Decent: Single 60 meter rope will do. According to mountainproject, it was suppose to be 6 raps. However, someone probably has cut one rap station, making everyone to downclimb a large section. After first rap, just follow the cairn down to the base. You will end up right at the base.

Got lost on p1: I ended up in sketchy dihedral (I think to the right of actual line?) with
loose rock and lousy pro. Fortunately the rest of the route was really mellow with great chickenheads on pitches 3,4,5. Super fun and mostly mid-5th class climbing.

None

great climb, although the last pitch takes some route finding skills - don't try to rap off this one in the dark (unless you are wise enough to carry a headlamp!)

Climbed this one day before my 30th--in celebration! 5.8 rating is solid; do not compare the rating to another Cochise 5.8 classic, Moby Dick. Much harder, more sustained, trickier moves, and requires more nerve in general on this one. Me: p1, p3, p5. Joe: all the rest! Gave it a safety rating of PG13 because p1 is runout (I had 50 feet at one point) due to lack of gear placements, and the traverses and chickenheads make one want to protect as infrequently as possible due to rope drag. Also, lead falls on many sections would probably be undesirable.

Great climb.