Ascent Notes for: Treiber's Deception - 5.7 popular Average Rating : 4.25/5

none

classic phx route! strange bolt! killer registar at top! it was 80 degrees out!

made it to the face moves near the top and puss'd out. first outdoor climb. psyched myself out. thanks mom.

Still don't have the guts to lead this thing !

Take two #4 camalots and maybe a couple of screamers for the old bolts. I've done it without them in the past, but it makes the couple of wide sections into no-fall zones.

Melissa and I had really fun with this route. Route is AMAZING! All the holds are there!!! I can't believe rock this solid exist in Phoenix with very low traffic area. Mental crux is kind of scary, but super easy move. Roof move offwidth move is easy, but mentally hard.

That phrase sums up the mix of moves on this line. I initially led this route ~1 year ago and it still feels hard in places! I would still rate the start at least 8+ (the shorter you are, the more committing and dangerous this move can prove to be). I used doubles on #1-3 (the second set I used to build my anchor) and a #4 is required to protect the final OW crack at the top, although it seemed like a #5 could possibly fit more snugly. I actually did bring up a #5 but chose to place it on the first OW crack (the #4 is too small there) because I felt more confident in it than the old, handmade bolt drilled at the lip of the overhang.

fun
repeat again with AMC Dec 22,2012
a .4 BD Blue protected first move at lowest point of arched crack

Very cool route, definitely a classic in the Phoenix area. Save a big cam for the last crack before the summit. I used Camalots #.4, (2) #1's, (2) #2's, #3, and a #4. And a small #4 stopper to help protect the step over to the main wall. Probably would have liked to have at least another #4 or larger Camalot for the last crack, but managed without it.

Very fun and very challenging for a 5.7!