Ascent Notes for: Pear Buttress - 5.9 Average Rating : 4.40/5

We traversed over from Loose Ends. The 3 Pitch is definitely the best. Starts off as a hand crack and goes to fingers. Good protection. Traversing under the roof will get your heart pumping!
I lead P4

That finger/hand crack on the third pitch is one of the sweetest around. Definitely save a medium cam for the roof traverse or you might feel naked.

...right after J-crack. My guide says this is 5.8, and I'd agree. Beautiful hand crack on 2nd pitch.

lead p2 p4

I believe the nice dihedral section is part of Loose Ends, but I could be wrong. Great climb, I really like the spicy traverse at the top of pitch 2...wohoo. Saw a friend rip out a cam under that roof while following because he missed the big foothold. Looked like a motorcycle wreck.....

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One of my favorites at Lumpy! You want the 1st and 3rd leads for sure!

Great route! The normal route up this never exceeds 5.8 in difficulty.

Excellent route. A very inconsiderate group of people were camped out top roping when we got there, hogging the start of several classic routes, so we had to skip the 5.9R start. After we finished the climb I came back down and lead that section just to feel like we did the whole route. I actually thought the R rating was kind of soft, I got in a good RP and small cam before turning the mini-roof on the flake, don't think a ground fall was likely.

We initially combined the shortened pitch one and two together (which I lead). I also lead the Cave Exit traverse, very fun. Poor Lou made the mistake of taking a wrong turn on his pitch and ended up doing a 5.8+ R variation which would have scared the piss out of me (the gear sucked ass). Lumpy Ridge is definitely my favorite place to climb.

It burns me to have to list this as hang dog, but I did have a slight fall at the top of the first pitch when I tried to use only the left finger crack. Then I did it with both and flew right up it. The rest of the route I free climbed. What an incredible route! The crack on the third pitch is just awesome!