Ascent Notes for: Effigy Too - 5.10b Average Rating : 3.20/5

The most difficult 5.10a I have done at Jtree and I have climbed over a hundred of them. Of course, it is just the cruxy start as is typical. I am not a boulderer or sport climber and there is definitely a specific sequence to follow before you can enter the crack above. A Metolious #0 can be placed from the ground, but then the route offers decking potential if you fail before your next placement. I am 5'11" and chose to use an insecure hand jam in a short flaring crack off left, right foot stemming up the obvious feature with a bounce to a finger ledge. One more pumpy move gets you to positive ground. The crack is straight forward after all that excitement. Walk off to the right.

f

went climbing here, it was the perfect place during the 101 degree weather (shady and not too many people)

felt soft for 10b, bouldery moves.... being a trad dad this might seem hard but being a gym rat no big deal.

free solo

spot on the bottom as the landing isn't great. My climbing partner blew it just before reaching the TG rail and had to lift his legs while swinging into me after falling on the initial stopper placement. It looks like a 000 cam could fit in a vertical slot a couple feet above the nut. Kind of a short climb that is a boulder problem into 5.7 crack.

yellow master cam as first piece, #2 or #3 nut to protect the mantle. still it's possible to deck.

Tony

Would make a nice solo. Hard start, relatively secure, to fun easy climbing.

good solid finger jams, nice cool rock. couldn't ask for much more. my toughest lead so far