Ascent Notes for: Bloody Crack - 5.8 popular Average Rating : 3.86/5

This was our third route of the day. I lead both pitches. The start is quite interesting due to heavy polish from many years of use. It took me a few minutes to get the moves figured out. Mostly because I placed a cam in a hand jam that that was needed. Once I removed the cam, it all came together. It is a little tough for the grade. The first half of the second pitch was fairly fun too. I just followed the most difficult rock up to the trees. We then moved back down and around towards Gemini Crack. We only had a 70M rope so we chose the lowest pine tree for a rappel as none of the rings in this area are low enough for a 70. The tree already had bail gear attached to it. We were able to get down to the ledge above Left Up and use the set of rings there to get to the ground. Not the greatest route in the world but it is worth climbing at least once.

crux start

starts off difficult because it is very slick. One of the local guides told me that it used to be a rappel station for the boy scouts and the obvious smears that I kept trying to use were polished from their tennis shoes. Had fun with it though and second pitch has a nice finish to it.

second pitch was wet. just went up 1st pitch.

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Led it in 3 pitches. 2nd pitch move over the corner was fun. Definitely give first pitch a 9 not an 8. Too polished

First time walking up to the route and leading it without a fall or restart. Really enjoyed it. Definitely a trick to 2 moves on it, the rest is pretty casual. Well protected for an early leader. Feels more like 5.8+-5.9 than 5.8 to me. Had to stop at first pitch again with water running above.

Just led first pitch because upper pitches were soaked. Fell on crux protected by #1 cam, lowered and then ran it clean. Great climb to lead for 5.8 with plenty of pro all the way. Think it's more of an 8+ now since the crux foothold is so polished.

Crux is at the very bottom, after this, smooth sailing.

Really liked this. Crux is like 8 feet off the ground :)