Ascent Notes for: Recluse *** - 5.10d Average Rating : 3.83/5

The business is right off the deck. To me, it was the hardest single 5.10 move I have ever done. You can slot a bomber nut and small cam to protect it. I took a small fall and then lowered. After much going up down to figure out how to reach the jam, I finally sent. Once through the crux, it's easier, but still hard enough climbing to the top. It was the end of the day and after doing the beginning, the rest felt like 5.9 but it might be a little easier than that.

So, I flashed the initial boulder problem, got my hand into the best jam I've ever seen, stuck in a cam, moved up into the good crack above, and fell when I couldn't get my hand out from that incredible jam. I yanked it up into my cam and fell right off the easy crack, blowing the flash. Good job. I am very disappointed that I have to claim Hang Dog on this ascent, but that's all part of the game. Also, I must have gone the wrong way up top (right), as it was a little spicy.

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It was a great climb however, it was raining and the crack was very slippery and hard to get a good hand jam.

What an awkward, strenuous climb--easier, of course, for tall people (me). I wasn't crazy about the upper crack, which was quite dirty when I did it.

The bottom of the climb was a little wet, but a fun crack climb with good pro.

Tricksy first move, right hand pinky out, elbow down into the obvious hole. Left foot on the flake out wide; left hand in finger jam higher than right. Pop up to make the right hand an undercling. Right foot finds something, but most weight is held by body tension between right hand undercling and left foot. Bump left hand and work pinky into finger jam. Cruise from there.

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good climb

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