Routes : Reviews
Ascent Notes for: Absinthe of Mallet -
5.10c
popular
Average Rating : 4.30/5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes
Comments: Show | Hide
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
zcooky1
good fun!
Added: 2015-03-03
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Absinthe of Mallet
With Larry from Los Alamos. My first Cochise climb. Led all the pitches. Second pitch was good. Combined the 3rd-4th pitches with a 60m. The last pitch variation I chose was a bolt line that finishes a 5.10 coming in from the left. Takes the left arete. Airy and fun moves. Not a huge slab or bolt climber and therefore going to be hard to get me to go four or five stars on too many of these Cochise routes. Good intro climb to the area for sure.
Added: 2012-11-10
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | G |
none
led pitches 2,5 and 7
pitch 2 is excellent
pitch 2 is excellent
Added: 2011-02-27
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | G |
Finally
Been meaning to climb this for like 3 years. Swapped leads. New bolted finish is beyond beautiful.
Added: 2010-01-20
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Super Fun (but not a 5.9 LOL)
More serious than peacemaker.
Slab felt difficult but mostly good protection.
Spacing of bolts was at times sporty to say the least.
Tough move out into the crack on pitch two. A bit reachy. That small metolius cam was helpful as pro. (I think someone mentioned using an alien) can't remember the size but it was yellow metolius or smaller.
Last tow bolted pitches were fun.
Download the mountainproject summary of climb it was right on.
Walk off is easy.
Approach to base was 40min.
i had a little trouble locating the first pitch but I went to peacmaker then doubled back and found the corner to the two roofs and saw the first bolt and I knew i was there.
(It was not the obvious route further to the left under the huge crescent roof that travelled over a bolted small roof and followed bolts out to the right. Still don't know what route that was.)
Slab felt difficult but mostly good protection.
Spacing of bolts was at times sporty to say the least.
Tough move out into the crack on pitch two. A bit reachy. That small metolius cam was helpful as pro. (I think someone mentioned using an alien) can't remember the size but it was yellow metolius or smaller.
Last tow bolted pitches were fun.
Download the mountainproject summary of climb it was right on.
Walk off is easy.
Approach to base was 40min.
i had a little trouble locating the first pitch but I went to peacmaker then doubled back and found the corner to the two roofs and saw the first bolt and I knew i was there.
(It was not the obvious route further to the left under the huge crescent roof that travelled over a bolted small roof and followed bolts out to the right. Still don't know what route that was.)
Added: 2009-03-02
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.1 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
awesome
this is a classic, glad to see some one has upgraded it to a 10...definite 10 moves on pitch 1 and 3 and 4
Added: 2008-03-31
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
Spicy!
5.9++ harder than Peacemaker. We climbed a bolted alternate 2 pitch finish up the face/slab to the right of the big chimney, well protected and no harder than the rest of the route.
Added: 2008-02-23
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Toproped last 1.5 pitches
Climbing with Geir and aerili, we setup an anchor and lowered to the end of the rope, then climbed back out (~ 1.5 pitches). Man, this was STIFF. I felt about to fall on each move, yet I didn't. Can't wait to go back and climb it from the bottom.
Added: 2007-07-04
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
sweeeeet
amazing climb from start to finish.
Added: 2007-01-03
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
cp
3.5 hrs. want to try for under 3hrs
Added: 2006-12-05