Ascent Notes for: Narcissus - 5.12a popular Average Rating : 4.37/5

Yay!

popular

Super pumped, even after 4 hanging it. I only got one burn on it though, then my friends needed to leave. Now that I have some decent beta for it, I could do much better I think.
Need to try climbing the slab face start next time to save some energy. Then L. heel hook to clip the third bolt. Move your hands up through a small crack system (while keeping both feet on the ledge) till you get to some crimps, and finally the next ledge, which you clip the fourth bolt from. Then reach all the way around the left of the bulge for a critical hold that will help you get to the clipping holds for the fifth bolt. Then just fight the pump till you clip the chains.

I also tried the direct start .12d to the route, which some guy named Christian said he thought was a V7 boulder problem. I touched the top 3-finger sidepull, but couldn't hold it to attempt the throw to the final jug that links it up with the .12a start to narcissus.

Hangdog 2011-08-28

Great enduro-climbing. No move really feels that hard, but having the gas (or biceps) get through them all gives it the grade. This a good climb for someone breaking into the grade.
Wish I had someone to hang the draws for me, though -- lots of hard lock-offs and heel tugging for the shorter climber to reach the bolts.

didn't even feel the pump

finally. beta: try real hard. 4th burn.

No beta and had to hang the draws. This one cooked me badly. Hung a lot. Then I had to clean the draws on the way down. Not a good end to the day. Not sure the best sequence at the third bolt. Thought the "crux" sidepull move was pretty easy, then got jammed up next to the third bolt and couldn't get out. Need to come back and get 'er done.

Backed off of it years ago when I first started climbing twelves. Now it seems doable.
5-18-2011 Finally dry! Hung the draws, then one-hung it.
7-1-2011: Red Point!

5/14/2011: 2 hangs. The route that intimidated me for years turned out to be really fun.

6/18/2011: the route is finally dry again. 4 tries, 1 hang. WTF?

7/1/2011: "redsight" first go of the day. I love this climb!

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