Ascent Notes for: Harder Than Your Husband - 5.11b Average Rating : 3.80/5

tried it maniacally

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i lead this one onsight while my friends worked on the sport routes to the right... i did some funky stuff to make it work but the jams were good and there is a great rest when the crux is over...

Late in the day, an easy trad 8 to finish off the day was the idea...this route is the 11, the 8 is the NEXT dihedral! First half is sketchy with decent protection, second half above the first cracky crux is really headsy, exposed and pumpy....ugh! Two important foot chips have broken off.

pro: normal red river rack. couple of .5s or no. 1 link cams.

First attempt w/ 1 hang Nov. 13, 2005. Redpoint Nov. 4, 2007 on 2nd try of the day, 5th try ever. Didn't figure out my "real" beta until the 4th attempt. NOTE: it's helpful to anchor the belayer in starter crack (takes fingers gear -- #.3 microcamalot/yellow TCU) in case of a fall once gaining roof crack until pro past crux is in.

pro: #.5 camalot in horizontal before roof crack, #.75 camalot low in roof crack,#1 camalot in crack just past shelf past the crux move and a brown tricam in small pocket. bolted anchor.