Ascent Notes for: Gallwas Crack - 5.9 Average Rating : 3.67/5

Greasy and slick... but old school fun :) would be nice to climb it when its not 80 degrees out heh.

This is the only 5.9 at the Gorge I didn't send on my first try. Definitely old school 5.9. IMHO more like a 10 because it's sustained and varied climbing - not one move of 5.9 followed by 5.6 moves like the Owl. Thank God for the rest after the first bulge. Probably my favorite climb at MG.

.

Had a tough time cause I kept slipping out. There are some ok jams but even those are a little slippery. The top offwidth section is interesting.

Rock was really wet, which is weird cause it did not rain the day before. I've been here before when it was raining the day before and the rock was dry. Weird.

I think this is one of the best MG trad climbs. A classic hard 5.9 which requires everything from Laybacking, handjams, and an interesting roof finish.

Crack eats up pro, which is good cause I sewed the thing up. I spent a long time on this, elvis legs and everything. I got a #10 stopper deep back in the roof of the chimney. Helmet doesn't fit in chimney...

Gallwas Crack is a bit harder than it looks. There are rests, but they are not as good as the appear from the belay. The chimney/offwidth at the top will take a fist-sized cam (WAY in the back), and maybe a #3 TCU. Otherwise, stick to medium stoppers and small to medium cams.

I followed up. It felt pretty hard for 5.9 probably bcuz the rock has zero traction.

No comment