Ascent Notes for: Glory Road - 5.7 Average Rating : 4.00/5

with cory

Fun route, first pitch seemed harder than 5.6.

One of my first routes after a 6 week wrist injury layoff. As others have said, stout for the grade. Thin p2 traverse across and down into the chimney/stem section requires a good head b/c you have to forego pro so your second won't take a nosedive. P3 I placed only two pieces in the easy crack near the end--I do not know where one would put reliable gear during the traverse over face and loose blocks. Convoluted walkoff; as you finally come round the formation, stay high against the cliff and avoid the urge to travel downslope and across--it doesn't work!

beautiful climb
loves pro

Climbed this with Melisssa. She led pitch 1 (hardest in my opinion), and I led pitches 2-4. I loved this route. Sustained, fun climbing, with different skills (crack, face/traverse, and chimney). Gorgeous day with a great view of Weaver's Needle from the summit! Used cams, nuts, and some hexes. Small tricams in pockets protect the traverses. Routefinding on the long descent was the crux!

Edited to add: At start of P3 go straight across the face rather than up and then back down again. It protects well, isn't any harder than the traverse on P2, and is a lot more fun!

My last climb of '06. Wall was in the shade and temps were pretty low, so we only did the first pitch. Damn hard for a 5.6 - supes old school.

First climb back in Phoenix, josh took us up the 5.9 squeeze chimney to the top, fun times!

Welcome back to phx.

No comment

Crux seems to be on second pitch where you transition from dihedral to arete to pull the overhang. Route finding on third pitch: go pretty much straight right from belay ledge and traverse to point where you can easily downclimb to base of huge chimney.