Ascent Notes for: ultra pimp - 5.10a Average Rating : 4.00/5

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Excellent route. Unfortunately, I think I went too far right too soon and ended up in some very lousy rock. I clipped the ring angle piton and then aimed for a bolt a short ways to the right. This led me to a large hollow flake horizontal (which will pull off some day) and up to a left facing dihedral of very poor rock. There was a place for a solid .5 BD cam or a stopper, but as I didn't bring anything smaller than a .75 camalot, I placed a #2 camalot under a hollow flake and raced to the top--had a hold break off in my hand midway up.

Moral of the story: I think I should have stayed left until after the piton and ignored the bolt to the right. I ended up one dihedral too far right.

very nice route

The right finish variation is pretty dirty. The left is clean below the dead tree but filled with pine needles and dirt above that. I'd consider finishing via the crack finish to H.T.B.P.; just use a long runner on the first fixed pin to avoid rope drag.

No comment

I was a fun, yet chalenging route, The route needed to be cleaned better. I almost lost my head while on belay. The first climber knocked off a TV size rock right at me!!! ROCK!!!!! I ran for a place to hide!
The crux was the large near the top. (right before the two bolt anchor).