Ascent Notes for: Nicorette - 5.12a Average Rating : 3.75/5

Starts with a big big throw to a sharp, shallow hold.
Then another big blind throw to what looks like a sloppy, horrible arete, but turns out to be a decent side-pull. I couldn't throw far enough to hit this side-pull until I found a tiny crimpy intermediate. Then when I got it, I promptly barn-doored off.

Once you get past these two starting cruxes, you just have to fight the pump to get to the anchors. I fell 25 feet from just beneath the chains. Then when I climbed up again, I got to a better clipping hold, and my belayer short roped me by about 2 inches. There I am, at the top, pulling up hard on the rope trying to get it up the last 2 inches to clip in, and I get short-roped 2 inches for a good 10-15 seconds. Still managed to clip in, but I thought I was going for another whip.

.

fun rock climb.

love it

No comment

No comment

I have wanted to do this line ever since I saw a picture of it when I first started climbing. Great great route.