Routes : Reviews
Ascent Notes for: Gunboat Diplomacy -
5.10d
Average Rating : 4.00/5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes
Comments: Show | Hide
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10c |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
gunboat
1st pitch only. too early/cold for the 2nd. fun stuff!
Added: 2012-01-16
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10c |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Love it
No Comment
Added: 2011-11-06
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10d |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Fun Climb!
My first 10d & felt like one too!
Added: 2011-04-13
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10d |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
still favorite climb at the bald
favorite climb that I've done at the bald.
Added: 2011-04-11
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10c |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Hard and sustained
Great climb. Small holds throughout the entire climb. Crux is defiantly on the second pitch.
Added: 2011-02-20
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10d |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Amazing!!
Loved this route. My current favorite lead. Crux just before 2nd to last bolt after being forced left then back right to bolt on balancy moves. Protected with small cams before very first bolt. Sustained and heady. Loved it!
Added: 2011-02-19
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10c |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Fantastic route!
Surprised to find that I considered the toughest move being lower on the first pitch. No moves were especially hard on the entire route, but a move just off the first big flake had me think more than any other. Took several small pieces along with the bolts. Very fun!
Added: 2011-02-14
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | G |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Edgy
Nice line - Fun moves up a well bolted line (possible small cam or two before the first bolt if you want and perhaps somewhere else up along the way). Nothing too crazy, with edges and crimps everywhere you'd like if you just look. I agree, P2 is similar but with one slightly different and harder move. Not bad though.
One of two fairly obvious bolted lines where we topped out the trail we were on (there are a bunch) after meandering left from the main trail and the screamweaver area. For some reason we had a hard time seeing this and recognizing it for what it was initially from the Select guide, but eventually the topo made sense. Area is a bit jumbled looking.
P1 goes to the lowest set of anchors you see on the big hilly slab, continue up and right to reach anchors on the climb to the right (7 yr itch) and you can get down w/ one 60m if you hit the intermediate P1 anchor. If you choose to go straight up past the last bolt like I did there is/was an unbolted easy slab to a slung small tree but it'd take two ropes to get to the first set of anchors from there. Partner called out I passed the middle and I had to work my way back right toward the bigger trees to find the anchor bolts on the face just below.
One of two fairly obvious bolted lines where we topped out the trail we were on (there are a bunch) after meandering left from the main trail and the screamweaver area. For some reason we had a hard time seeing this and recognizing it for what it was initially from the Select guide, but eventually the topo made sense. Area is a bit jumbled looking.
P1 goes to the lowest set of anchors you see on the big hilly slab, continue up and right to reach anchors on the climb to the right (7 yr itch) and you can get down w/ one 60m if you hit the intermediate P1 anchor. If you choose to go straight up past the last bolt like I did there is/was an unbolted easy slab to a slung small tree but it'd take two ropes to get to the first set of anchors from there. Partner called out I passed the middle and I had to work my way back right toward the bigger trees to find the anchor bolts on the face just below.
Added: 2010-11-29
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10c |
Safety Rating | G |
Crispy.
Well bolted slab climbing. You don't see that often in NC. Progressively crispier as you approach the top. There is one hard 10-ish move somewhere on the 2nd pitch. The rest is 10a or easier. Works well to link the pitches in one shot.
Added: 2010-11-29
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Fun climb
Great climbing! I think the grade is a little easier than printed in the guide. The second pitch seemed to be a little more dificult on those hollow sounding flakes.
Added: 2010-11-05