Ascent Notes for: South Crack - 5.3 Average Rating : 3.88/5

The "easiest" climb I have ever done. NOT!!! More challenging than 5.3.

Classic PP route

1st multi pitch

I have climbed this 4 times so far, and it continues to thrill me every time. It was my first multi-pitch lead (combined with Birthday Party and Sillouette). I have taken both beginners and experts here, including one party of 7. I took my girlfriend (now fiancee) here on her first multipitch climb. It is everything that an easy trad climb should be, with a mixture of many different techniques (which can often be used interchangably), gorgeous views, outstanding and easy protection, and a thrilling rappel at the end. All within Scottsdale city limits!

South Crack was probably put up during a time when 5.3 meant a bit more than it does to most climbers today. But in no way do you have to be a 5.9 trad climber! I first did this when I was a 5.7 trad climber, and it seemed easy but a lot of fun. Now that I am a 5.9 trad climber, it still seems easy but a lot of fun. I would recommend the new climber to review the "Crack Climbing" section of "Freedom of the Hills", as this climb requires vastly different techniques than you would typically learn in the rock gym or sport crag. But none of these techniques need to be mastered to climb this old-school 5.3 local-area classic!

lots of fun, easy crack plug and chug

This was my first trad ascent. Not bad at all, a classic beginner as the guide says. For those concerned about another climbers ascent record saying that you need to be a 5.9 trad leader to comfortably do this climb, just know that I disagree. It is an excellent beginner trad climb. In fact, it might be called mixed because there are two places that are bolted. The cracks swallowed cams great and the exposure keeps the climb interesting even with the 5.3 rating (I personally would rate it a 5.6, but trad ratings might be different). For the reluctant trad newbie I would really recommend this climb, however, make sure you are given proper training before attempting a trad climb!!!

yeya

I have been to Pinnacle Peak several times, but I have never actually been to the summit. So Melissa and I had to do it. It is FUN route. Don't let 5.3 rating fool you. I have climbed just about everywhere, and this route certainly isn't 5.3. Melissa and I think it should be about 5.6-5.7 rating. Mentally, you will need to be like 5.9 trad climber to not freak yourself out (did I tell you exposure!!!). Bring plenty of slings to extend your protections especially if you are doing both pitches as single pitch. The route wanders around a bit. You can run both P1 and P2 together to summit if you have 60 meter rope. I would have given a 5 stars, if route was longer and you didn't see bunch of yuppies' homes.

Fun climb, my first multipitch

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