Ascent Notes for: Whipping Post - 5.10a Average Rating : 4.00/5

Start is hard to find unless you know where it is - almost immediately after you scramble up to the ledge that the hanging garden gully starts on (right side) there is a left leaning 15' or so tall block above to your left with another ledge a bit left. Scramble up between the two and step across to the the block out right (careful a fall would be BAD but it's not hard). A nice flat ledge awaits and a good belay stance with a tree to anchor to. Above you will see two bolts indicating the line on the licheny face.

Follow these up and plug what pro you can through the 7/8ish climbing aiming for the roof. This is the same 3-4 foot roof capping the wall across the face of the other hanging garden gully face climbs.

Work your way near the arete and eventually you'll see another bolt in the middle of the face just above the roof. This protects the crux. Clip and have fun puzzling it out.

Follow weaknesses in the rock more or less straight up until you end at some old rusty bolts below the massive First In Flight roof at the top.

There was a slung block towards the middle of the roof patio area we used to rap down to the gully in a single rope rap with a 70m. Take care to not rap off the ends.

I had a bit of a hard time figuring out the crux moves, moving back and forth until I had something that worked. Didn't need anything bigger than a C4 #3 and couple probably have gotten away without it. Small cams were nice in a few spots. Long route with great exposure. Nice and shady on a warm day!

Bolt right where you need it. I looked around and couldn't find any protection and there was a bolt right in front of my face! Didn't have a 2nd rope to rap with, so we scarmbled to the 4th class gully and rapped off some trees.

Fun route. Lots of puzzles to solve, solutions I'd forgotten.

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Good route - we ran into a bee's nest in the dead tree at the belay area after the scramble. Reach up and left for a pretty good crimp at the crux. Simul-rapp'ed on double ropes

Long!

Note that the bolts, especially the crux bolt are a pretty rusted. I'd suggest backing them up. Two ropes to rap from the top (70 m might make it? edit a 70m will NOT make it, use anchors to HG gully or rap off the block atop 00/HM/GP) or walk over above 00 and rap back down to the hanging garden approach.

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have put as many as 14 pieces on rt....50m ..one of longest pitches on cliff