Routes : Reviews
Ascent Notes for: Cornflake Crack -
5.11a
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Average Rating : 4.91/5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes
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Difficulty | 5.11a |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
Exposure | ![]() |
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Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
about this time
The first ten feet is hard. Afterthat, a runout area--at least PG. The second pitch is more sustained, but without the hard move of the first wet pitch.
Added: 2012-09-10
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Difficulty | 5.11a |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
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Great variety
Hard earned onsight when wet. I had to down climb from the extremely wet underling at the start 4 times before saying oh well and just over gripping through the water. More seepage above, actually a lot for a "classic". While I thought it was good to have a slice if Yosemite style, that is all it was. If this is your bag you can get on ten pitches of this in a row all over the west that stay dry, so you better go there. I loved this route though and will do it again cuz I dont think it will ever feel easy. Get on this thing
Added: 2012-08-26
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Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
One Route to Rule Them All
Many stars...very G.
Added: 2011-10-23
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Difficulty | 5.11a |
Safety Rating | G |
wow.
this climb is amazing but it's kind of a joke that this gets .11a and safari jive gets .11c?both pitches are harder than safari jive, and much more continuous. clean follow, cleaning all gear, of camhead's lead.
Added: 2010-09-07
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.11b |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
Insanely Good.
This is one of the best 5.11 crack routes in the nation. Super varied face and crack, stemming, jamming, laying back, everything. Take lots of little gear for the first pitch a lots of mid-sized gear for the second.
There really should be some bolted anchors at the top of the second pitch, however. I know about the strict NC trad ethic and all, but it is ridiculous to keep killing the trees on the ledge this way.
PG13 for a section on pitch 1 where you have to cimb onto the slab and about 15 feet out from tiny gear. Not really PG13, but I would not call this a g-rated sew-up fest.
There really should be some bolted anchors at the top of the second pitch, however. I know about the strict NC trad ethic and all, but it is ridiculous to keep killing the trees on the ledge this way.
PG13 for a section on pitch 1 where you have to cimb onto the slab and about 15 feet out from tiny gear. Not really PG13, but I would not call this a g-rated sew-up fest.
Added: 2010-09-07
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.11a |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
actually hung...
...my way up on a TR, but this is one of the most amazing pitches I have been on. Several sections of continuous 5.11 finger lieback, and then exit the crack onto a face mantle. I'd love to work on this climb and make ita long term goal.
Added: 2010-06-21
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.11b |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
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pretty incredible
hard moves abound on this one...I hope to get the redpoint one day...got flash pumped on the low lieback and hung. Also fell FOLLOWING the start of the second pitch twin cracks.
Added: 2008-07-21
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Difficulty | 5.11a |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
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Radness
Probably the best and most varied .11a crack anywhere.
Added: 2007-09-12
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.11a |
Safety Rating | G |
....
fun
Added: 2007-06-27
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.11a |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Ascent Note
One of the best climbs I've ever done! It just grabs you and doesn't let go! Wow, ultra classic!
Added: 2006-06-21