Ascent Notes for: Garbanzo Bean - 5.10a Average Rating : 3.33/5

none

Without the traverse left, the route was a ~5.8 though pro placing was a bit of work. Large 4 or 4.5 necessary to protect the top chimney/ offwidth

Greg lead this route, and I followed it took him like thirty minutes to lead, and I followed in about 5! It was great!

sand in a bag

Probably most sandbagged 5.7 I have ever been on. Moves are super hard, but it protects easily and solidly. Maybe next time I am strong enough to place few cams at the crux without pulling on the cams.

start move tough

sandbag 5.7

dicey start! The crux is definately the traverse to the left crack. Lead by Greg Caruso.

Tough start to get up in flared crack. I would consider most of this climb an offwidth rather than a narrow chimney. There are only a few spots where you could fit most of your body in. Cool traverse from belay ledge to start second pitch. Very sustained and physical. Felt rating was very "old school".

First pitch isn't very good. Second pitch was nice. We didn't go the way described here... we traversed left where it gets blocky to reach the next crack left. Then followed that to the top (2nd pitch).