Ascent Notes for: Scheister - 5.7 Average Rating : 3.64/5

5.8 "4th" pitch, Felix led 1 and 3.

First did this in April and did a p3 variation finish since we did not know where to go. This time I led p1 (no #4 with me-- whoops), Malieka led p2, and Karsten led standard p3. Crazy, grunty finish. I agree, old school 5.7 and not for the fledgling .7 leader! Yosemite-esque climbing.

Mike L. led 2nd. pitch.

First trad experience, and the chimney was grunty. Sweet lieback on the 2nd pitch. Route has a little bit of everything, including impressive exposure when you come out of the tunnel.

Got a little ballsy on the chimney and set a #3 way low and ran it out to the squeeze/crux. Got a #2 in and worked my way up. Pitches 2, 3 are classic. Great climb. Chimney is cake with a #3 and #4 and a pretty creepy when you've got nothing. Lesson learned.

The first pitch is the business, the difficulty eases on the 2nd and 3rd pitches. Old school and fun.....

Super easy climb, although I solo'd the chimney on the first pitch because I'm trying to lighten the amount of gear I bring with me on trad climbs, and didn't have anything big enough to fit in the crack at the back. The lieback on the second pitch is fun, but the top-out sucks if you go through the "tunnel". It's a pain to belay your second from there. Still, it was the first day out this season, and not a bad climb

Not fun.

Took me forever to muster up the guts to climb the chimney, but I made it through alright. Good thing I had two 4 inch cams with me, although one of them was kind of broken.

Second and third pitches were tons of fun as well. I was stupid enough to climb without a shirt and I was freezing my butt off at the top of the loaf. Eventually found a tree I could rappel from on the west side and got the heck down.

Did this route on a pretty hot September Day. One nice thing was the belayer could sit in the shade at the start. I ended up linking the first pitch up to the anchors above the pitch 2 lie back section which worked fine. The first pitch was varied and fun. The chimney was a bit hard to protect. Since the area burned there is a lot of sun exposure on the way up and many trees around the base are gone. Definitely a cooler season area.