Ascent Notes for: Nutsweat - 5.9 Average Rating : 4.20/5

...came back for the lead. Had followed it once more in the meantime. Kinda crucial to have something like a green Alien/red or yellow C3 size for the first crux. Solid placement but that's all you've got more or less for that move.

Didn't notice the slight runout over loose rock mid-route the first time quite so much as I did when on lead. Thankfully it's over easy stuff and you get some good pieces before the upper crux begins. Can get a couple pieces in the better rock in the cracks on the face right of the arete, slightly off-route.

Awesome to have #2 and #3 C4s to slam home just after the upper crux and along the traverse. A killer nut placement at the end of the traverse seals the deal and puts you good stead for the jug haul mega-roof action.

This time round I found the right holds and got my sequences right so I think the grade is probably pretty reasonable provided you don't dally and get pumped out. Kinda scary in some spots but it's all there.

Fantastic route and one of the best at Moore's from those I've done, but that steel cable around the chickenhead makes me cringe and laugh at the same time. Thankfully it's only PART of the rap anchor. (the chickenhead head it looks like something I'd test carefully before committing body weight on lead...) I GUESS it's solid... welcome to Moore's.

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I felt like I was a beaching whale...well, before the first...second...third whippers. Hah. No style points for the overhang though. Must do again.

I think this is about as good as 5.9 gets. Bring big stuff for up top.

Upper section gets your attention for sure :) Thin feet and an airy traverse into a crazy spacey jugged out roof!

First crux was sort of surprising, down low. Parts of this route could be scarier for the 2nd than the leader, in particular the potential pendulum from this first crux.

Might like to follow it again before I try the lead...

Single 70m gets you down - not sure if a 60 would though.

I came up as a second on this climb and repeatedly had trouble. Peeling off the left traverse on the second pitch swung me out under the roof. Wasted a lot of time having to jug the line to get back on. That time spent hanging in free space with the awesome exposure got to me a good bit.

Back up that rappel system, we left a stopper to help future parties and improve the integrity of the anchor.

Nice route, great exposure.

is SWEET

nice

Get on this route ASAP it kicks ass! Cool lower crux (.75 cam) up to belay. 2nd half eats nuts and other gear as well. Ridiculous jugs for the finish. Peregrine fly-by at the top!