Ascent Notes for: O'Kelley Crack - 5.11a Average Rating : 4.27/5

onsight free solo

The start, woah!!! Thank goodness for shoulder stands!

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I tried to do the 11c start with a fistjam - though it did stick a little, its just wasn't enough to make the move. I finally gave up and aided past the first move. Got the the rest of the of the route clean. Got an elbow, then a knee jam near the end, but nearly came off in the last few (offwidth) moves. For me the crux was the end. Of course had I not aided the start, the first move would have been the crux. I later tried to toprope the start and still couldn't do it. I've seen the start rated as 11+ and 11c - I'd believe that (though obviously the difficultly of the fistjam is hand-size dependent). Overall, a good route. The only thing that would make it better would be closer match between the difficultly of the start and the rest of the route.

The start is harder than anything on Wangerbanger (5.11), and the rest is just awesome.

finally got the start and zent the route.

Short but stout. The curvy pod thing provides a no-hands rest if you lean a shoulder against the right wall.

I Love this route. An all around demanding crack. A cruxy start, nice full hands to a 20 degree pumpy roof and out. A must do.

Amazing route with very cool start, especially with the shallow fist to tight fingers beta. Nice to stick clip a nut, though. Didn't like any of my gear around that chockstone, but had a bit of big kit, #5 Friend, for the wide finish. Almost got spanked at the top (like my first try), but with the big gear, I eked it out.

Was able to get established with a fist jam. The upper part of the route is no gimme either.

Will go back to lead it.