Routes : Reviews
Ascent Notes for: The Friar -
5.9
Average Rating : 4.00/5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes
Comments: Show | Hide
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | R |
The Friar
The last pitch is burly and heads-up for a Red Rock 5.9. After pulling through the first moves and getting situated on the boulder, you can get a nut in between two thin flakes. Then go right around the corner and mantle onto a ledge where the bolt is. If you can lead this pitch, you'll cruise something like Levitation 29 (or perhaps it would be better to say, you shouldn't attempt to lead this pitch unless you onsight 5.11 sport at Red Rock).
Added: 2009-11-30
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Spooky finish
Great line, risky traverse at the end.
Added: 2009-11-03
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | R |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
i rate the spice: nutmeg.
with dow below... i think that a couple of nuts and double ropes prevent decking from the crux (but dow was probably in a better position to judge?)... large brass nuts may have been useful, who knows. my guidebook claims that there are two bolts after you traverse to the arete, but i only saw one, which either means i was already too high, or the guidebook is incorrect... all in all quite a fun little route, though i would recommend you not be pushing your abilities on the last pitch. excellent position!
Added: 2008-12-10
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | R |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Spicy, Scary....
those are accurate adjectives. The climbing is no more difficult on that 4th pitch than 5.9, but the pro opportunities are not warm and fuzzy to say the least. The problem is not a fall as much as the decking opportunity on top of the pinnacle from where the belay starts. The crux move or two is right off the deck. The bolt is out right and well beyond the difficult moves. We combined those middle two pitches for a full 200' to the belay to start the 4th pitch. With Brad from Calgary.
Added: 2008-12-10
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | R |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Fun, but spicy!
Really good route- the first two pitches are good by themselves, but if you're strong, do the top two as well. The last pitch is spicy at the grade, and pretty burly too- but the topout is worth it for sure and its a great climb!
Added: 2006-11-18
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Difficulty |
Ascent Note
Had to bail off of pitch one after high winds and downpours ruined a perfect opportunity.... then we found out that our tent blew away because of the same winds. Happy New Year!
Added: 2005-12-31
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Difficulty |
Ascent Note
only did first 2 pitches
Added: 2005-03-28