Ascent Notes for: Repulsion ** - 5.8 Average Rating : 3.50/5

.

.

Climbed the first two pitches to the cave, and then finished on Standard Route

With Hans. Nice 5.8 pitch after toe crack. Finished up Standard Route.

Only did the 1st pitch as a work around to get to Toe Crack. The crux is a slabby traverse out left and when I did it the route was streaming water. Took a 15-20 footer onto the lone bolt and then got back on it and barely squeaked the crux. If you see wetness it is guaranteed that you have too step in it be careful!

No comment

No comment

No comment

5/17/03 - Onsight. I took Dan and Lindsay up Repulsion, knowing that it would be a mellow day as far as climbing difficulty goes, but a challenge for the head. Some scary runouts on the two 5.8 pitches 1 and 3 made for a great lead! I found myself making 5.8 slab moves 15 feet above a TCU on the third pitch, which was by far the most challenging part of the climb. The toe crack on pitch 2 was good, although I didn't fully enjoy it - I think I was still fighting the mental game that pitch 1 played with me! The R rated climbing coupled with the stress of bringing two followers up on a climb with relatively small belay stances made for a tough, slow climb. We took 4 hours to do the four pitches! The fourth pitch was cool at the beginning when it joined the last part of the Standard Route chimney, but dirty gully climbing after that made for a forgettable pitch. There's a short but tough final 15' of climbing after the last belay if you belay where I did. I roped up to avoid pitching off the ledge in a fall, and belayed Dan and Lindsay to the top.

No comment