Ascent Notes for: Crimson Crescent - 5.11a Average Rating : 4.43/5

Ok, I am from the east coast. I have only climbed Sedona sandstone 1 other time (The Mace). I started up the first pitch with typical east cost (ur...solid rock) technique. I broke off more holds in the first 50 feet than I have ever broken in my lifetime of climbing. Manny advised me to rethink my climbing. Ok, pitches 2-5, I really was very deliberate about my climbing and only broke 3 or 4 holds along the way. This climb is a serious climb. It's got rock that is decaying, it's seldom traveled (dust, dirt, pebbles) on key holds and it's hard. Pitch 2 is a well bolted sport climb, with the crux at the last bolt. Recommend a piece of gear between the last bolt on the climb and the anchors. Pitch 3 is happy, easy, reasonable pro with bolts protecting some cruxier areas. Pitch 4 is the money pitch. You climb a tight corner then, hold your breath and begin a very airy traverse under a soaring roof. It's protected by well spaced bolts, but even as a second it's scary climbing. The crux of the traverse is getting the nerve to commit to moving between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. The holds are dust covered and feel like crap until you actually throw your feet on to the smooth slab. Two quick moves with better hands gets you to the bolt and easier traversing. The 4th pitch ends at a hanging belay. Manny added a second bolt, so it's really secure. The final pitch is a quick trip up to the top (almost). It was amazingly windy and cold. I was shivering while belaying Manny on the 4th pitch and while belaying the 5th I was glad to be tightly bolted, the wind was gusting and I felt like I was going to be blown off the rock. We finished up quickly, didn't linger at the top and rapped. Manny did a lot of cleaning on rappel, hopefully it will feel less chossy to the next climbing party.

All in all, a super fun climb, very serious, requiring deliberate hand/foot work.

Dang Manny, all the bolts and anchors you added to make the masses happy, have really altered the from the FA experience: ground up, drillin off hooks, manky stances while cleaning lots of choss on a couple of cold windy winter days. you can probably leave the rack behind; bring draws and a few passive pieces!

Joe Garcia and I began at 1 pm and finished near 530 pm; clouds and little bit a rain made us cringe just a short while. It turned out nice and cool! We also added some bolts and a new anchor at the end of the roof to reduce rope drag. Hope this helps.

This poorly equipped route takes a nice line up Japhead, but unfortunately the climbing is mostly on choss. If one were actually to clean the route of all the loose rock, friable flakes and sugar rock, there wouldn't be much left to climb. Also, despite having a number of bolts, the climbing is necky and committing at times and some of the anchor placements leave you exasperated. Nice summit.

I seem to find myself doing this one every fall, great route to do as it starts getting cool.

My first serious climb in Sedona. Second pitch was excellent and bolted well. Last pitch was terrifying but awesome! Nice job on the FA Mark and Manny.

the crux on pitch 2 is bolted, but be aware that you will be making some difficult moves above your bolts. I think the pitch is about 110ft long and only has 10 or 11 bolts. I believe it is reasonable, the falls are all safe. There are some really fun, thought provoking moves on that pitch. The first pitch starts out 5.10 off the deck w/ thin pro or traverse(5.6R) in above this crux about 15ft from a juniper, some poor rock in the corner- but much better than it was. third pitch is only about 5.9 up and right of the belay following insipient features w/ varied pro. the final pitch is hard 5.10 up the crescent past both gear and bolts- commiting moves, save a .75 or #1 camalot to protect the exit onto the slab, then clip a bolt and move up the shallow corner to the top anchors. rap 4x w/ a 70m or 2ropes.

Jon lead the 2nd n 4th pitches and we rapped the whole thing with one 70m rope. Finally a warm day. If I didn't drill a baby angle on the hanging rap, we would've done it car to car @ 4hrs.