Ascent Notes for: Fantasy Ridge - 5.9 Average Rating : 4.75/5

Some spicy moments with committing moves and/or rather tricky gear...

2nd pitch is not that bad. Clip the bolt, place a small cam then make a single tricky move to go right. 3rd pitch is the real business of the route. We went left under the roof here and it was intimidating (somewhat sketchy rock under roof). The climbing above stays sustained and in your face all the way to the belay. Wow!

All I can say is awesome.

I lead pitches 1 and 3. Pitch 1 - Can't miss the 5.7 angling crack, should actually start the climb about 1/3 from the start of the crack. Just climb 8ft or so from the ground and place a BD #3 and continue up the crack. Pitch 2 - should be strong/experienced at 5.9. A tcu placement is pretty easy about 3 or 5 feet after the bolt. Make sure you angle up and right on face moves, then make a nice reach for the 5.5 crack to the right of the face climbing. Pitch 3 - One of the best pitches at 5.9. Take the right crack and venture under the roof. Take the right side of the roof, which has a nice placement before pulling over on positive handholds. Then, continue in a easy 5.7 or 5.8 crack for 10 ft. Next, face climb for a short section (place pro before you start the face climbing) and come up to a 5.9 crack on the left side of the bulge. Take the crack(the crux) for 15ft or so, and end up at a nice belay ledge with several cracks for a good belay. Pitch 4 - Start with 15ft of sold 5.9 climbing with many placement options, then continue to easy spires on the backside of the bookmark formation. The rap bolts are located on the left back side - 2 bolts. Rap for a 90-100ft down semi - loose gully. Find a few rap slings and make another 75ft rap down a lower angled gully. You will end up at the beginning of the left book.