Routes : Reviews
Ascent Notes for: Too Much Fun -
5.9
Average Rating : 3.62/5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes
Comments: Show | Hide
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | G |
too much fun
it's okay. blue chock is much better. you either have to climb the 5.6 flake without pro or break it up into two pitches.
Added: 2013-08-30
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Not a clean climb on my first try
Lost it on the crimpy crux moves and swung out right and could not get back to the crux. Need to come back and try again.
Added: 2013-06-13
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | R |
Hmmm
Did the flake start out left, traversed out right level with the bottom of the shallow corner, did crux and set a belay shortly after due to rope drag hell. Easy finish up and right. Two ropes would be the way to go for sure. We had to break it into 3 pitches to reach the rap station which was kind of a pain.
Easy well protected climbing until you wrap around onto the exposed face with the shallow corner and bolt. I had a 00 master cam at the base of the corner and a downward pull only RP that popped when I pulled rope at the belay or when I pulled up slack to clip the bolt, not sure which. Also kind of sucks for the 2nd since they will likely face a pendulum after unclipping the bolt unless you happen to have a very tiny cam for a thin horizontal above (something smaller than a 000/grey master cam - maybe a tiny C3?).
Getting to the bolt requires some very thin moves, that aren't extremely difficult but are not well protected. A fall before getting the bolt would be nasty and probably bounce you off the apron below and then result in a long tumble down if you didn't stop at the ledge (10' or so below). The moves up and traversing right after the bolt felt about similar difficulty to the moves reaching it so the bolt sort of interrupts a cruxy section rather than protects it exactly. Still, I was grateful it was there, I just wish there was one more very good piece to protect getting to it. Maybe I'll have better luck with another shape/size nut next time I try it. I still need to try to arching left corner finish - it looked intimidating but cool.
Easy well protected climbing until you wrap around onto the exposed face with the shallow corner and bolt. I had a 00 master cam at the base of the corner and a downward pull only RP that popped when I pulled rope at the belay or when I pulled up slack to clip the bolt, not sure which. Also kind of sucks for the 2nd since they will likely face a pendulum after unclipping the bolt unless you happen to have a very tiny cam for a thin horizontal above (something smaller than a 000/grey master cam - maybe a tiny C3?).
Getting to the bolt requires some very thin moves, that aren't extremely difficult but are not well protected. A fall before getting the bolt would be nasty and probably bounce you off the apron below and then result in a long tumble down if you didn't stop at the ledge (10' or so below). The moves up and traversing right after the bolt felt about similar difficulty to the moves reaching it so the bolt sort of interrupts a cruxy section rather than protects it exactly. Still, I was grateful it was there, I just wish there was one more very good piece to protect getting to it. Maybe I'll have better luck with another shape/size nut next time I try it. I still need to try to arching left corner finish - it looked intimidating but cool.
Added: 2013-04-07
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
Amazing day, part 1
Finished straight up. Crux was enough for me w/o a rope.
Added: 2010-10-19
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
very nice route
pretty good for 5.9. the pro is fine for the grade, bring a micro and you can protect the (one) committing move to the bolt.
Added: 2009-08-17
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | G |
contrary to the crowds
enjoyable and well protected for NC
Added: 2009-06-07
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10c |
Safety Rating | R |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
scary
Another finely bolted Moore's Wall route....NOT!!! The route is scarier than the Zoo View traverse. I just looked down the barrel of a 30ft ground fall.
Added: 2009-04-26
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | R |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Direct start to Washboard finish
I don't care for the "real" finishes, but direct start to Washboard (arete) finish is a nice combo. Might be 10a some places. ;)
Added: 2008-06-19
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
did with Washboard finish
with Washboard finish. Unless you runout the bottom, it is good to split the climb up into two pitches or face very bad rope drag. Can either belay at fixed tricam where Blue Chock and Too Much Fun split, or stop after the crux after the bolt. A couple of thin moves required to get to the bolt, and the gear is not great, but the climb is pretty fun.
Added: 2007-10-14
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | G |
:)
Fun lie back at the start, pretty nice climb overall.
Added: 2007-07-02