Routes : Reviews
Ascent Notes for: Crescent Moon Buttress -
5.10a
Average Rating : 5.00/5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes
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Safety Rating | G |
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A totally awesome (and long) day
Oh my goodness. What a great day and a great adventure. If you are looking for a really fun adventure with very moderate climbing, do CMB. A ten mile drive from Hidalgo off dirt roads, you feel like you are in the middle of nowhere. The approach is better if you can find the trail (marked by cairns) but ok if you don't. You are better off in boots and bring a pair of leather gloves if you have them. There are cacti and things with thorns EVERYWHERE. Once you get to the base of the climb, don't let the seemingly high first bolt scare you off. The climb is very well bolted on every pitch. Pitches 1 and 2 are face climbs, mild and well protected. Pitch three was more of a scramble, I think there was only 1 bolt. You down climb a bit to get to the base of Pitch 4, the 10a. It's only hard leaving the ground and through the first three bolts. I do believe that you could french free as required. After another scramble, you have to rappel into the next two climbs. (This is where you set up the tyrolean traverse). The next two pitches are very mild (although look intimidating from the top of the rappel). We set up a tyrolean traverse, did a pendulum rap to the chains way out on the face and then did a two rope rap to the ground. It's a very daunting descent. Again, cacti everywhere and very difficult footing on a super steep scree slope. After the scree you will see the trail back to the base of the climb to retrieve your belongings. We did it as 4 parties of 2 and we took all day (started climbing at 10AM and returned to the car at 6PM). We were all fast climbers, but, with so many of us the raps took a long time. A great climb, a pretty crappy descent.
Added: 2011-11-13
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es un pedo la bajada pero sta bien,, recomendable
Witnessed by: poncho ochoa
Added: 2006-01-07
Added: 2006-01-07
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No comment
Witnessed by: Steven Bozard
Added: 2004-12-16
Added: 2004-12-16