Routes : Reviews
Ascent Notes for: Any Major Dude -
5.11d
Average Rating : 4.00/5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes
Comments: Show | Hide
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.11b |
Safety Rating | G |
Fun
Fun face climb into a burly roof pull. The crappy rusty Pitons were recently upgraded to bolts so it's a safe fun lead again. You may or may not want a hand sized (red or gold Camalot) for the horizontal below the roof on lead. Great route, similar in quality and style to Overhanging Hangover. Jumped on a rope already in place for a quick TR this time but will come back for a lead next time for sure.
Added: 2012-03-09
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.11d |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Fun route
I had to hang on it once but next time it will go. I love the crimpy face climbing to the huge move at the roof!!!
Added: 2012-01-30
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.11d |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Such a Good Climb!
This is a fantastic climb. Definitely a sustained 5.11. Traverse right briefly for a nice rest spot halfway to the roof. Rest here before traversing back left to the route line and climb thin crimpy face holds up to HUGE JUGS just before the roof. Take a rest here because this roof is definitely a 5.11 move as well. Once you get your feet high enough, you're homefree! Huge jugs finish out the route. To TR, hang from the conveniently located pine tree! Didn't get it clean this time, had to rest on the rope at the overhang.
Added: 2009-07-01
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.11d |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Such a Good Climb!
This is a fantastic climb. Definitely a sustained 5.11. Traverse right briefly for a nice rest spot halfway to the roof. Rest here before traversing back left to the route line and climb thin crimpy face holds up to HUGE JUGS just before the roof. Take a rest here because this roof is definitely a 5.11 move as well. Once you get your feet high enough, you're homefree! Huge jugs finish out the route. To TR, hang from the conveniently located pine tree! Didn't get it clean this time, had to rest on the rope at the overhang.
Added: 2009-07-01
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
made it to the horizontal
The crux is just above the horizontle. Really interesting moves. It was probably 10d up to that
Added: 2009-02-07
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.11d |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
Was Kelley wrong?
Jeff gave this three stars and 5.11 and describes the piton line (and approves them for use, advised for safety for bad swing). But that, according to Kelley, is the 5.10 "Minor Dudes" variation. He said the main route was to the "horizontal crack. Climb the left crack." Well, there is a crack over there, in the roof and above on the upper face; but the master who did it today says that looks too easy to be the route, and he confirmed again that pulling the overhang toward the right is way 5.11 and definitely the route to climb. Or, try to. The face is about 5.11 too, sorry. And there is nothing easy about the following overhangs.
Two standard runners will do fine, btw: look for the little rock under the tip of the big block. If you fall on the face on top-rope, however, the tree is waiting for you. If you brought 'em, clip 'em in.
Two standard runners will do fine, btw: look for the little rock under the tip of the big block. If you fall on the face on top-rope, however, the tree is waiting for you. If you brought 'em, clip 'em in.
Added: 2008-02-16
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.1 V0 WI1 A0 M1 F |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Exciting route
Crimp, crimp, crimp, side pull, side pull, pinch, side pull...
Added: 2007-12-08
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.11a |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Actually "Any Minor Dude"
Did the right variation being Any Minor Dude. I cant call it a full .11d as Major is so I'm going with .11a instead. Not really sure what it is though.
Added: 2007-10-26