Ascent Notes for: Papa Bear - 5.9 popular Average Rating : 3.58/5

Easy climbing to the roof and then it gets more serious. Lock a hand jam and pull to the jug past the lip. Fun climb. First try with no falls.

TR/ Hung several times at roof before finishing (& only then after watching Rob pull the crux move).

Since that hold broke off on the lip of the roof the crux of this problem is a bit harder. Really have to lean back on a somewhat positive layback in order to reach up for the juggy hold. For short guys like me it's a stretch! The face leading up to the roof is 5.7.

Real easy face, nice jug to pull the roof with, overall fun climb.

Climbed this before but noticed that the main hold for moving out around the roof flexes in a bad way. Eventually this thing is going to snap off and hopefully not hit the belayer on the way down! The way we tried it it became a lot harder as you basically need to reach way out to the lip from the hand jam and just grab a crimp. From there it's up to a right hand jug and work your way up flailing with somewhere to put your feet.

Update: Came back and climbed it clean. It's all about the beta...

>_>

I would say the beginning of the climb was not bad but the roof is way harder than a 5.9

This route is rated a 5.7 to the bottom of the roof and then a 5.10c pulling the roof by 3rd edit. of Kelley. I think this is the most acurate way to rate this as some people want to climb the .7 crack but not the roof. I tried twice to pull the roof but was burnt out from all day climbing . I will be back to finish it. Loads of fun.

To do just the face crack, this time I used the proper bolts above on the big ledge. So, for my first time, I got to swing wa-a-a-y out after leaving the wall to come down. Others are used to that: I will never do that again. If it had happened from a fall, I feel that going inverted would be all too possible, at least for me. I then climbed it with the rope over in the corner crack, and the increasing swing to slam into rock is not an attractive option.

imo, especially with chalk badly slicking all the holds, doing only the 5.7 crack is not a safe climb for 5.7 climbers.

the route is fun overall, but the moves required to pull the roof are worth doing over and over. Though I will say I think it's quite a bit harder than 5.9