Routes : Reviews
Ascent Notes for: Amazing Face -
5.9
popular
Average Rating : 3.90/5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes
Comments: Show | Hide
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Lead climb
Only did this route. Had a severely sprained ankle, seemed a little stiff for this grade as crux was reach dependent and required some good footwork. Prob worth UK grade 6a or 6a+ which is 5.10b ish.
May be different at full fitness but small crimps and fine footwork seemd too hard for 5.9
It is also worth pointing out to all others in this forum that a popular route mentioned in a 10 year old guidebook will be significantly different tofay than it was when first climbed or bolted. Sandstone climbs always change their character over time due to type of rock.
Popular routes in the UK are updated over the years as they become polished, shed holds or the holds deteriorate.
Bear this in mind when comparing actual grade to grade in guidebook.
Check the published date.
That said - I only did one climb !!
P.S I climbed 5.11d indoors at Berkeley so do have something to base my opinion on.
May be different at full fitness but small crimps and fine footwork seemd too hard for 5.9
It is also worth pointing out to all others in this forum that a popular route mentioned in a 10 year old guidebook will be significantly different tofay than it was when first climbed or bolted. Sandstone climbs always change their character over time due to type of rock.
Popular routes in the UK are updated over the years as they become polished, shed holds or the holds deteriorate.
Bear this in mind when comparing actual grade to grade in guidebook.
Check the published date.
That said - I only did one climb !!
P.S I climbed 5.11d indoors at Berkeley so do have something to base my opinion on.
Added: 2012-05-29
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
first sport lead
great route. well protected, and there's always a good crimp within at least an arm's length. careful footwork is a must.
Added: 2010-05-24
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Jeffers morning!
good climb
Added: 2009-09-20
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Sustained - fun
There are 11 bolts, about 7 feet apart. Probably one or two 10a moves, the rest is sustained 9. A couple of crimps and a couple jugs. The rest is about feet. Super fun route!
Added: 2009-08-23
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Amazing Face
It’s a typical mental challenge. You really have to focus on your feet. And definitely a 5.10a. NOT a 5.9. The holds doesn’t look very save. Some of them you can even turn around. You need exactly 10 quickdraws
Added: 2009-08-10
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Bay Climbing
Who'd have thought there was such fun rock right near SFO? Great climb. Well bolted. Fun.
Added: 2009-08-10
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
n/a
n/a
Added: 2009-07-09
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
bring water
it's really all about the footwork isn't it
Added: 2009-06-27
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Amazing Face
Definitely not a 5.9, I agree with aforementioned reviews that this is either a 5.9+ or a 5.10a. Abundance of holds but use those feet. Great pitch, about 90 feet sustained.
Added: 2009-06-18
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | G |
Scenery | ![]() |
Tricky
Lots of feet, tricky. Seemed more like a mental challenge than a physical one, and probably not a move harder than 5.9 on the route. Not a quick send!
Added: 2009-05-19