Routes : Reviews
Ascent Notes for: Bottleneck Direct -
5.10a
Average Rating : 3.50/5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes
Comments: Show | Hide
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Bottleneck Direct
Pleasantly surprised. Way better than Chockstone Direct in my opinion. The first pitch has several belay options, but I ran it to the top which required us to simul climb a couple of meters. It was much more sustained that the Chockstone Direct version. Fairly intricate climbing, quite fun, picked up tons of brand new gear? and cleaned a lot of crap out of this route. More biners and slings to add to the huge collection from Yam. The 4th pitch had a traverse on some bad rock, even by Yams standards. Beta could have been written a lot better on that one, but I had no issues with it. The last two pitches were quite fun chimneys for the grade. Not much real chimney action, but the corner out right on pitch 6 took some careful thought to access as the chimney work up to that was a bit run out. Super day with Adrienne, she did a fantastic job on her biggest trad experience yet.
Added: 2009-09-05
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Ascent Note
this was a good route but with out the 5.10 pitch I think that it would be a litle let down, the climbing above is closer to 5.9 than 5.8. the 5.10 is very well protected however the frist chimney pitch is ran out about 25+ft above a large ledge and the 5.8 corner above is very sustained and I would say 5.9.
Added: 2006-10-14