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Ascent Notes for: Bottleneck Direct - 5.10a Average Rating = 3.50/5 Average Rating : 3.50/5

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2009-09-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Bottleneck Direct

Pleasantly surprised. Way better than Chockstone Direct in my opinion. The first pitch has several belay options, but I ran it to the top which required us to simul climb a couple of meters. It was much more sustained that the Chockstone Direct version. Fairly intricate climbing, quite fun, picked up tons of brand new gear? and cleaned a lot of crap out of this route. More biners and slings to add to the huge collection from Yam. The 4th pitch had a traverse on some bad rock, even by Yams standards. Beta could have been written a lot better on that one, but I had no issues with it. The last two pitches were quite fun chimneys for the grade. Not much real chimney action, but the corner out right on pitch 6 took some careful thought to access as the chimney work up to that was a bit run out. Super day with Adrienne, she did a fantastic job on her biggest trad experience yet.

Added: 2009-09-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2006-10-14 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

this was a good route but with out the 5.10 pitch I think that it would be a litle let down, the climbing above is closer to 5.9 than 5.8. the 5.10 is very well protected however the frist chimney pitch is ran out about 25+ft above a large ledge and the 5.8 corner above is very sustained and I would say 5.9.

Added: 2006-10-14

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