Ascent Notes for: surrealistic pillar direct - 5.10b Average Rating : 4.33/5

I red point after only my second attempt. What a great P1 this was. I used 4 pieces on the wide crack with double length runners to have the rope go straight up with zero drag. The roof protects really well and once you trust your jams it's all over if you get your feet on the knob. Rest some and a few moves later it will be in the bag. It feels true to the rating.

takes great gear, sometimes it's a little far back in the crack. felt pretty hard for 10b. I'll say 10c. ran out the last piece and opted for the more direct line going straight for the anchor on dikes.

Decided to jump on this after over a year and try leading it. On top of the roof and 1 move away from getting my foot on the right big knob (i.e. the rest of all rests!), my hand slipped out of the crack and I fellllllllllllllllll...........

interesting moves

Excellent first pitch (to chains). Finishes with cool dike hike.

And the more direct variation that traverses up the hand crack and gains the bolted anchor from underneath -- both were fun.

Harder than it looked.

i ended up leading this thing at the end of the day and was wiped out by the second piece of pro. i at least made it up past the roof before falling... overall, a great route when you're not completely exausted!

With all the dykes along the way, it was hard to imagine it being a 5.10b. Boy, I was wrong. Can't imagine leading this in my wildest dreams; to follow this route was tough enough. However, beautiful sustained climbing. The move before the traverse to the right (if you choose to go that way) was tricky, but the finishing crack was fantastic.

before i knew it i was at the top. pretty good climb