Ascent Notes for: **Primitive Paradox - 5.9 Average Rating : 4.50/5

great climb, but the top was wet

1st pitch no problem. Second pitch there is some confusion as to which route is PP. the boulder corner was all wet. the atlas says PP is more to the right with an undercling. went over to the undercling.

Forgot my shoes on accident. Did a barefoot onsight. P2 was soaked as usual.

first pitch only
second pitch was soaking wet

Don't miss it

Supposedly I made up a variation at the beginning of the route by going straight up from the BT anchors to gain the right facing corner. Anywho, the last five feet of the corner is height dependent and if you are under 5'6" a deadpoint is required either into an undercling or onto a jug a foot higher. The gear is freakin bomber though so just go for it!

great 5.9. lead both pitches. nice fixe double ring anchors at the belays with comfortable ledges. stayed in the shade until at least 1:30 then we topped out by going left under the roof to a big ledge then up a dirty corner

Its two pitches of pure fun. First pitch is fairly easy until you get to the crux at the top. Put in a mid-sized nut and pull the fingertip flake as you mantle up and do the traverse to the bolts. Second pitch is more sustained with protected face climbing until you get to the right facing large corner crack that is all lie back (medium gear) and then throw a nut in for the crux. Under cling the small hand flake on the right and shimmy up to the top over the ledge. Great Exposure

Its stout so have fun!

This was a strenuous climb to end the day on, especially while cleaning gear (Scott led both pitches). The final moves to the topout of P2 can be a little desperate. Still, an excellent route.

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