Routes : Reviews
Ascent Notes for: Blues Riff -
5.11c
Average Rating : 5.00/5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes
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Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.11a |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Classic
Do the route in two pitches to the top. Don't know why anyone would stop and belay at the first anchors (like description above suggests) below the crack, that's stupid.... and stacks??? Why the hell would anyone need to stack in a tight fist crack?
Anyway, great route. Really soft for the grade, like "maybe" 5.11a with somewhat sustained .10a to the top. Nowhere near .11c with sustained .10c though.
A crappy start and up a crummy easy fist crack to a needless bolt. Then its a few short easy face moves into the beautiful finger crack, a good rest then a really nice hand crack with decent rests and bomber feet. Just as the crack starts to get hard, there's a huge incut inside that makes it way easy again. Then a short 5.9 fist crack section to the anchors. Save a #3 C4 or whatever for that section. Didn't have one and had to run it like 25ft. Scary. Second pitch climbs a wild .9 flake that arches and gets razor blade thin. Some good pro and a short section of knobby slab to a small bulge with good pro to the top. Don't miss out on the second pitch, it's really interesting and fun.
Anyway, great route. Really soft for the grade, like "maybe" 5.11a with somewhat sustained .10a to the top. Nowhere near .11c with sustained .10c though.
A crappy start and up a crummy easy fist crack to a needless bolt. Then its a few short easy face moves into the beautiful finger crack, a good rest then a really nice hand crack with decent rests and bomber feet. Just as the crack starts to get hard, there's a huge incut inside that makes it way easy again. Then a short 5.9 fist crack section to the anchors. Save a #3 C4 or whatever for that section. Didn't have one and had to run it like 25ft. Scary. Second pitch climbs a wild .9 flake that arches and gets razor blade thin. Some good pro and a short section of knobby slab to a small bulge with good pro to the top. Don't miss out on the second pitch, it's really interesting and fun.
Added: 2008-07-13
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.11c |
Safety Rating | G |
fabuloso
thats what my spanish friend Alberto calls it...no exaggeration, amazing climb and super pumpy
Added: 2008-07-01
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.11c |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
awesome!!!!
Blew the onsight up high, just below the perfect hands section, damn, but did it second try. Worth the drive, immaculate!!!
Added: 2008-06-25