Ascent Notes for: Direct Northwest face - 5.10c Average Rating : 4.21/5

Wanted to climb crying time again, but with a line on arrival at 6pm we opted for DNF. What a route!. Every pitch will grab your attention. I peeled off at the crux but I had just placed a bomber #2 cam which held just fine. Start of p3 was a little bit tricky, but with the sun setting I decided to pulling on my piece and expedite the climbing. Topped out in time to enjoy the last bit of sunset and drink some wine.

it's good. fun clyme.

The crux - though very short & easy to protect - seems 10c to me. It felt very tenuous - harder than Bombs Over Tokyo. My partner wanted to hike the day after Oz, but when he got back late afternoon Saturday I suggested we do a quick run up DNWF of Lembert. We linked the first two pitches, but did the last two separately - probably a good thing, as rope drag on the 10c finger crack crux, or the 5.9 slab at the top would not have been fun. I think we did the route in something like 2.5hrs. Not a record to be sure, but it fit in nicely at the end of a rest day.

Would like to do again some day and lead the crux pitch.

Led the 10a pitch
Steve led the 10c crux - I fell on follow got it 2nd try

Just running up it is so fun. Just gets harder and harder as you go which is pretty cool.

good times, crux is short, reach way up and right

Did this on a Sunday morning before leaving the meadows. A fun climb to finish off the weekend. The crux section is short.

One of the best lines in the Meadows. Very painfull ringlocks on the crux, but it's short.

Fun route, short crux